PDF- -Art Hobbit J R R Tolkien PDF Download - How to Paint Elrond

Paint Elrond

Description

Materials used: Paints: Chaos Black Skull White Tanned Flesh Dwarf Flesh Regal Blue Graveyard Earth Shadow Grey Blood Red Scorched Brown Catachan Green Goblin Green Elf Flesh Bestial Brown Golden Yellow Bleached Bone Enchanted Blue Ice Blue Snakebite Leather

Lacquers: Testors Dull Coat

Basing: P

WS Ballast GW Static Grass WS Early Fall Foliage WS Late Fall Foliage Oregons

Inks: Brown Ink Black Ink Metalics: Tin Bitz Brazen Brass Burnished Gold Boltgun Metal Chainmail Mithril Silver

Preparation Before proceding to the actual painting,

I had a good look at the miniature searching for both flash bits or mould lines

these were clipped off and filed

After this,

and scrubbed with an old toothbrush

Finaly,

Face As I usually like to do,

the face was the first thing I started

I think faces are one of the most important parts of the miniatures and heroes,

deserve some extra time to really make them stand up in the lines of our armies

It's very important to keep your paints very thin (by adding water),

to avoid loosing sculpt details and to get smooth finishes

This is especially true when painting a face

To start,

the basecoat was given using a mix around 25/75 Tanned Flesh and Dwarf Flesh,

with just a hint of Regal Blue to make it look less pink

Using very dilluted paint means that you will need several coats before you get an even coverage

I then started to highlight by adding more Dwarf Flesh to the original mix (and more water)

These highlights were concentrated in the forehead,

Remember that,

you can use the same mix and still achieve a progressive tone variation by concentrating the coats

Less coats will show more of the basecoat,

while more coats will show more of the colour you are using

When the mix was pretty much Dwarf Flesh,

I started doing some shading

For this I took the basecoat mix,

and added a bit more of Regal Blue,

I used this to give a few glazes in the face recesses,

such as the lower parts of the cheecks,

under the eyes and in the wrinkles

the dillution of the paint is a key factor

After having the guidelines of the face done,

it was time to go a bit further

The eyes and teeth were carefully painted with Skull White with just a bit of Graveyard Earth (just so that it isn't pure white) and I started adding Bleached Bone to the flesh mixture to continue the highlighting,

concentrating more and more the layers were the light gathers the most

When the white of the eyes was fully dried (it doesn't take long,

the eye pupils were carefully painted using Shadow Grey (its important to make sure they match)

I also used this colour to separate the teeth,

Don't go overboard and specially don't make the lines too thick

Looking at the picture for instance,

the upper teeth look a bit wrong

Finally,

Skull White was added to the flesh mix,

and this was used to fine tune the face highlights

After this,

a couple of very dilluted (almost transparent) glazes of Dwarf Flesh and Dward Flesh with just a bit of Blood Red were given to all the face surface (carefully,

Of course,

the hands were painted in the same way and using the same colours as the face flesh

The hair was simply basecoated with a 50/50 Chaos Black/Scorched Brown,

and then highlighted by adding small bits of Graveyard Earth to the mix

Armor and Robes

The chest and arms parts of the chainmail were basecoated with a 50/50 mix of Tin Bitz and Brazen Brass,

followed by a wash of watered Brown and Black Inks

A bit of Burnished Gold was then added to this mix to basecoat the armour plates,

adding more of this colour to do the first highlights,

concentrating these in the edges of the plates and in the parts that gather light the most

The lower part of the chainmail was basecoated with Boltgun Metal (with just a drop of Regal Blue),

followed by a wash of the same watered Regal Blue and Black Inks

Both the chainmail parts were then highlighted with light drybrushes of Chainmail and Mithrill Silver

At this point,

I started the robes just by giving a basecoat of 50/50 Catachan Green and Goblin Green mix,

with just a hint of Graveyard Earth

I think this is a really handy colour as,

gives them a more 'earthly' shade

The highlights in the armour plates were forced a bit more,

by adding Mithrill Silver to the previous mix,

and appling carefully in the edges

After this,

I used a very watered mix of Brazen Brass and Brown Ink to shade the armour,

adding Black Ink to the paint to use in the areas I wanted to look more darker,

and also to sort of lining the different plates

In the end,

I gave a few glazes of Catachan Green in the armour,

though its not very noticeable in the pictures (or in real life for that matter)

To start the highlights on the robe,

I simply mixed small ammounts of Goblin Green to the original mix,

applying a few thin coats in the more proeminant parts,

like the upper part of the folds

To force the light a bit more,

I gave a few more coats,

progressivelly adding Elf Flesh to the mix

To shade,

I picked the inicial robe mix,

and added a small ammount of Chaos Black and Regal Blue and plenty of water

With this really dilluted mix,

I applyed several layers in the areas I want to look more darker,

like the lower side of the folds

Finally,

a couple of really thin Green Goblin glazes were given to the robe

The sash was done in the same way as this part

The fake gold trim was painted with a Bestial Brown basecoat,

adding Golden Yellow to highlight,

Its not the best gold you can achieve,

I simply dislike to use real metallic paints to paint trims or freehands on cloth

The sword blade was basecoated with Chainmail,

to wich I added small amounts of Chaos Black to give several glazes to shade,

always keeping the paint very thin

The idea was basicly to emphasize the different plans of the surfaces

As more darker I wanted a particualr area to look,

After this,

a 50/50 Chainmail and Mithrill Silver was used in the same way,

Finally,

pure Mithrill Silver was used in the very edges of the blade

The sword hilt was simply basecoated in Scorched Brown,

and highlighted up to Bestial Brown

The same mixes were used in the belt and in the scabard

To basecoat the cloak,

I applied several thin layers of Regal Blue,

keeping the paint very dilluted

After a few coats,

the cloak had an even coverage and it was ready to do the highlights

For these,

I simply added small bits of Enchanted Blue to the base colour,

and gave some layers in the raised folds

Ice Blue was then added to the mix and a few final coats were given to highlight the folds were the light gathers the most

After the highlights I proceded to the shading

For this,

I darkened the Regal Blue by addind small bits of Chaos Black,

and gave a few very thin coats in the recesses and in the bottom of the cloak

Following the same principle as before,

I gave more coats in the areas I wanted more dark

Overall,

the cloak seems to darken from top to bottom

To finish things,

I gave severall very thin glazes of a 50/50 Regal Blue and Enchanted Blue on the cloak

These almost transparent coats (use plenty of water

!) helped to unify the colours a bit and to achieve a much smoother finish

I considered a bit if I shouldn't paint some dust in the bottom of the cloak

In the end I decided that,

if Legolas can walk over the snow all tidy when the others had snow to the neck,

then probably the elves don't get that dirty

Of course,

this is just a matter of tastes and you can do some weathering,

Finishing touches

The boots were painted with a 50/50 Scorched Brown and Chaos Black mix,

adding a bit of Bestial Brown to highlight

The boot straps were simply painted with Graveyard Earth

A dilluted wash of Black Ink was then given to all the boot to shade

After this,

it was just a matter of protecting the paint with some lacquer

I use Dull Coat,

I can only recommend this product as it gives a really nice dull finish to the miniatures

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